Companion planting cheat sheet
Companion planting is useful when it means shared space, shared work, and fewer pests — not folklore charts with 40 “must pair” claims. Use this short cheat; ignore the rest until you have a season of notes.
What usually helps
- Tall + short: corn or sunflowers as windbreak / light shade for lettuce in heat
- Trap / distract: nasturtiums near brassicas (watch them; they also attract aphids)
- Aromatic edges: herbs (basil, dill, cilantro) at bed borders — harvest for you first, insects second
- Nitrogen helpers: beans or peas near heavy feeders if you also add compost (legumes are not magic fertilizer)
- Living mulch: low clover or dense lettuce under taller fruiting plants to reduce bare soil
What to stop doing
- Do not pack incompatible root zones into one square foot “because a chart said so”
- Do not expect marigolds alone to erase tomato hornworms
- Do not plant walnuts / juglone-heavy trees next to sensitive beds and blame “companions”
Classic pairs that earn their keep (small yards)
| Pair | Why it is practical |
|---|---|
| Tomato + basil | Shared harvest path; similar water needs |
| Corn + beans (with space) | Beans climb; corn needs wind room — do not overcrowd |
| Carrots + onions / leeks | Different pests; similar row habits |
| Cucumbers + dill (edge) | Dill for you; some pest confusion — leave airflow |
One-season experiment rule
- Try one companion idea per bed
- Write what failed (shade, water competition, disease)
- Next year keep only what reduced work or damage
Planting sequence: Seasonal planting order. Filter paid vs free: Vs Free.
If you want layout + water + season extension as a system (not another folklore chart), a structured guide can help after you lock frost dates and sun map:
Get The Self-Sufficient Backyard (affiliate link)
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Keep the pairs that save work. Drop the rest.